CWotW – Gaiters

My Findings:

Gaiters are a lower leg covering that extends from the instep of the foot, over the ankle, and covers the calf, sometimes over the knee. They were used in military dress, and are still used by hikers and climbers to protect their legs from undergrowth and cold. They could be made from any sturdy heavy material such as cotton canvas, leather or modernly, thick polyesters and nylon. Most of the ones I have seen button up, but also can be buckled (I have a decorative pair that lace up at the side). These are not to be confused with spats, which are simply a short version of gaiters that only cover the instep and ankle and were mostly used for decorative purposes. FOR MORE CLICK HERE…

CWotW - Flat Lining (also Underlining)

My Findings:

Flat lining can be used to stiffen anything you sew that you need to have be more stiff such as a structured bodice, cuffs, lapels, and ESPECIALLY corsets.

Basically, you have your fashion fabric that you cut into your pattern shape. You cut another out of your flat lining fabric (usually a stiffer material such as canvas, but any sturdy, woven fabric such as muslin should work), then lay it on top of your fashion fabric, Fashion wrong side to Flat Lining right side. Then you stitch INSIDE the seam allowance (in between where your seam and the edge of the fabric is) all the way around. Repeat for each piece. Then use them as if they were just one piece.  Then finish your seams as normal (binding, serging, flat felling, French seaming, zigzagging, or pinking).

This is also called “Underlining”, and is often confused with “Interlining” (Yes, I’m guilty of that). Underlining is using a fabric as described above, where as interlining is used to add warmth to a garment (At least this is what the Threads Magazine article told me).

FOR MORE CLICK HERE…

CWotW – Tambour

My Findings:

Tambour embroidery is a style of embroidery that uses a hook like tool instead of a needle, to produce something like a chain stitch. It is done on fabric that is pulled taught over a hoop, with another hoop over top to keep the tension (normal embroidery hoops). This hoop is where the word Tambour comes from because Tambour means drum (When you think about it, fabric in a round embroidery hoop does look like the top of a drum). The Tambour technique is also great for beading and can apply beads and sequins quickly. FOR MORE CLICK HERE…

CWotW – Kirtle

My Findings:

A kirtle is a supportive dress that usually laces tightly over a shift and may be worn as the outer layer, or with another gown on top.

In the medieval period it seems to have been a gown fitted either at the front, or side seams (with less evidence for princess seams). Less likely to have a waist seam than it’s later cousins. The closer you get to the 16th century, the more the kirtle takes on the characteristics of a bodice with attached full skirt. It’s possible that in fact the corset (or rather “pair of bodies”) is a more heavily stiffened kirtle bodice simply without the skirt. Even in the 16th century kirtles could still be a single gown, as we can see in the example of the kirtle and loose gown in Janet Arnold’s Patterns of Fashion.

FOR MORE CLICK HERE…