Trish's Pattern Review

How come I don't see...? I have decided not to put every renaissance or fantasy inspired pattern in here, like I did before. This time, I'm keeping it to the really good stuff that I recommend to my friends. http://www.gbacg.org/Patterns/ The Great Pattern Review Pattern Key * = I own this pattern *=It's ok, in a pinch. **=Pretty good style, but could use some modifying. ***=Good pattern, but not necessarily period cut. ****=Great pattern, Period cut

Margo Anderson's Historic Costume Patterns
www.margospatterns.com

The Elizabethan Lady's Underpinnings, * (I own version 1)
The Elizabethan Lady's Wardrobe, * (I own version 1)
The Elizabethan Accessories, * (I own version 1)
The Elizabethan Comfort,
The Elizabethan Working Woman's Wardrobe,
The Elizabethan Gentleman's Wardrobe. * (I own version 1)

This entire line gets **** for it's research, design and instructions

I have not made up a full Margo pattern yet...time & my costuming ADD, has simply not yet permitted me to finish. I have used the Margo bodice as a base for another pattern that worked out very well, and I have made up one set of the sleeves. The instructions are practically a book. They have all the tips and tricks of costuming that you could hope for. If you're not a pattern junkie like me, you could get either the Working Woman's Wardrobe (which is made up mostly from pieces from the Lady's Wardrobe, Underpinnings, and Accessories), or the first three listed as the Elizabethan Lady's Wardrobe Ensemble, and possibly never need another Mid-Elizabethan pattern again.

Reconstructing History Patterns
www.reconstructinghistory.com/patterns/

Too many great patterns to list (check out the website to see them all)...so I'll just list my favorites.

16thc Saxon ("Cranach") Gown *
16thc German (Landsknecht) Wams & Hosen
16thc Commonwoman's ("Kampfrau") Gown *
14th through 17th century Cloth Hose, Boot Hose, Netherstocks, *
English Jacket and Petticote
Late Elizabethan Loose Gowns
Late Elizabethan Corsets *
Elizabethan Closed-Front Loose Gown, Loose Kirtle, and Sleeves *
16th-17thc Polish Gown — Zupan *
Men's 1630s Breeches
The Shinrone Gown
The Dungiven Outfit

This entire line gets **** for it's research & design

This pattern company has patterns for a wide range of regions and class segments. Reconstructing History seems to have patterns for those "off the beaten path" re-enactors who want to do something a little different than everyone else. I love the historical notes in each of the patterns. The instructions aren't as exhaustive as the Margo Patterns, but they are pretty well done, as long as you have at least some sewing experience. Modern construction and period construction instructions are included in each pattern, as well as diagrams of period stitches that would have been used in making that garment if you want to do it completely period, by hand.

The German outfits just look so cool, I can't wait to make the Kampfrau gown. I love it's simplicity in design. The Netherstocks are not sized for large men's calves, but look as if they would fit fine on women, instructions to size them larger are given. I love my Closed-Front Loose Gown, Kirtle and Sleeves! It looks perfect, I will put up photos as soon as I get some taken. My husband really wanted a Zupan, I just need to finish fitting the mockup to him (I just hate setting in sleeves, the pattern is fine) so I can make it out of the final fabric. The Men's 1630's Breeches are based on the same pair of breeches that show up in Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion that I based Chris' breeches off of.

Alter Years
www.alteryears.com

Basic Ren-Fair garb with great lines.

Boned Tabbed Corset. I love mine. ***(period examples we have, have straps until late in the next century) *

Back Lacing Bodice *** *

Side Lacing Bodice *** *

Front Closing Men's Doublet *** *

Elizabethan Costume Page - Drea Leed
http://www.elizabethancostume.net/ 

Custom Corset Pattern Generator *** (period examples available, have straps until late in the next century) *

Elizabethan Smock Pattern Generator **** *

Making an Elizabethan Bodice Pattern **** *

Constructing a Gathered Kirtle ****

Making a Gored Kirtle Pattern *** *

Big 3 Commercial Pattern Companies: 
you may notice some that are current are missing. Either I have not added them yet, or they were so bad I didn't even want to bring them up.

I've divided them up in to sub-sections. Click on the section to drop down in the page to it.
Great to Good Patterns
Passable to Ok in a pinch
Medieval
Men's
Children's

Simplicity www.simplicity.com	McCall www.mccallpatterns.com	Butterick www.butterick.com
	****Great to  ***Good  Patterns
3782-Court Gowns. Best Big 3 pattern I've ever seen. The only thing missing is the chemise and underpinnings. **** 3635-18th C. Underpinnings. Great Corset and pockets for Renaissance. **** 4219-Poet Shirt. Good for Women and Men.*** 5791-Cloak with shoulder capes and hood *** 9531-Italian Ren. Easily adaptable for a more period cut. *** May be out of print. 8881-Shakespeare in Love. Bodice needs to be cut lower and without the curved seams. *** May be out of print.	M4698-Cloak with Hood *** M4805-Men's Hats. Because everyone needs to wear hats.*** M4806-Women's hats. Really it's all medieval except for the Muffin Cap. Because everyone needs to wear hats.***	B4484-Underpinnings. Corset, petticoat & pockets would work great for renaissance. **** B4254-Corsets. Has the same corset from 4484 that has front & back lacing, plus this one which is only back lacing, (then some Victorians, wrong period). **** B3071-18th Century. While it's the wrong period, the lines are great. Just change the sleeves fro the correct silhouette. ***
	**Passable to  *OK in a pinch
5582-Basic Ren-Fair Garb. Interesting bodice. Drawstring skirt and bumroll are nice, chemise sleeves are too short. ** was: 3623-"Celtic Women" Was:  8855-Basic Ren-Fair Garb ** was: 3812-Ever After-Italian Ren style. Was: 8735-Italian Ren "Style". Great sleeves, rest isn't so great. *  was: 3809-Basic Ren-Fair Garb. Was: 8715- Basic Ren-Fair Garb. Make 2 separate skirts instead of view B's overskirt. Bad princess seams in bodice. * 4508-Middle Class Ren-Fair Garb. ** 4488-Basic Ren-Fair Garb * 9960-Wench *	M4861-Corset. It's not the greatest corset, but it's better than none. Not a bodice. ** M4091-Chemise & Leine. ** M4090-Skirt. View A, or make 2 skirts. ** M4107-Generic Ren-Fair Bodice. * M4696-Generic Ren-Fair. * M4997-"Irish" dress. Sleeves are not quite right for this style gown. Eliminate Darts. Use better pattern. *	B3552-Early Tudor style. ** B6196-Generic Ren-Fair Wench. One of the more complete commercial patterns with bodice, chemise, skirt, apron and coif!** B4571-Bad Tudor. * B4669-Wench bodice. Interesting back seams, bad peplum. *
	Medieval
	M5499-Cotehardie & Sideless Surcoat. Princess seams, but nice. ** M5155-Gamurra/Houppelande. Very early Italian renaissance style. ** M4490-Generic Medieval gown. Use alone or with M4491 * M4491-Generic Medieval over-gown. Use with M4490 * M4492-Lord of the Rings/White Lady of Rohan *	B4827-Medieval. Princess seams but nice. **
	Men's (So little of it)
4059-Men's Renaissance Outfits. No darts, yea! Includes hat, shirt and pants. *** 8913-Men's Kilt. * 3806-Peasant. Women's vest is bad. The rest are t-tunics good for earlier personas.	M4695-Men's Doublet. I don't like the darts. ** M5214-Doublets. Please use a separate shirt, don't attach the shirt sleeves to the doublet. Again, bad darts.	B5656-Men's Renaissance outfit. Doublet skirts should be shorter & I don't like the darts. ** B4574-Generic Ren-Fair Peasant/Robin Hood. *
	Children's
5517-Todler Renaissance *** May be out of print. 4944-Girl's Tudor. Ignore the boys. * May be out of print. 5520-Princess Seam Dress & T-Tunics. *	M2856-Disney Princess. Needs a chemise with it, but otherwise it has nice lines for the ones with longer sleeves. ***	B4319-Kid's T-Tunics. Good for early period or chemises. Capes great too. **

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