The idea was for it to be a nice upper – middle or noble gown, 1560s/1570s.
I had to make everything except the farthingale.
I made up the toile and fitted it to myself, by myself. The muslin fit! I made up the bodice on the “French Cutte” style. See Patterns of Fashion: The Cut and Construction of Clothes for Men and Women, C.1560-1620, the drawing on how the Phoenix bodice pattern was presumably cut (thank you helpful ladies from the discussion with Margo at the K.W.C.S. 2002!). I have a nice thick bone down either side of the front opening, and decorative and functional hooks/eyes. I flat lined the linen lining to the velvet. The skirt is attached directly to the bodice in box and knife pleats.
To go along with the dress, I made a high-necked long-sleeved cotton-eyelet smock, a corset, a bumroll, a purple satin drawstring skirt, coif and a pillbox style hat.
In January 2008 I added a placket in the center front when my taller Mother-In-Law borrowed the dress. Of course you can’t see it in the photos.