Surcoat & Kirtle with Sleeves

trishropa2I’m wearing a small hoop, a linen square necked smock with long sleeves, and cotton lace around the collar and cuffs (I need a partlet with ruff). I’m also wearing my green corset. The kirtle is made of a green linen-cotton blend. The forepart and sleeves are a cotton base with wool crewel work that I dyed from a cream color. dyingissocrewel5bThe forepart is hand beaded with very lightly dyed freshwater pearls. The sleeve cuffs are bound by hand with a pink silk satin ribbon. The surcoat is a cotton velvet that was wrapped too tightly on the roll and when it arrived in our store, the pile was flattened in places and we had to sell it at a lower cost because it was damaged. It’s actually a really deep brown, the black was too stark against the pink. At the collar and cuffs of the ropa is real rabbit fur trim. On my head I wear a machine decorative stitched cap with false pearls. I made my necklace and earrings with rather large natural colored freshwater pearls and a gold bead in between each pearl except on the earrings. Again, the kirtle, sleeves and ropa were from the pattern: Reconstructing History RH204 Elizabethan Closed-Front Loose Gown, Loose Kirtle, and Sleeves. The arms are a bit too tight on the Kirtle while wearing the sleeves.

trishropasleeves1 sleeves04


As you can see, I marked the sleeve shapes and cut them out, but followed the embroidery pattern out a little ways when cutting the seam. When I put the two pieces, right sides together, I basted it together, and then I figured out which pieces were going to stick out over top and I trimmed down to the basting, removing part of the basting to slip it through.

Then I took the embroidery pieces which are left on top and I stitched them down all around the edges so they laid flat.

When it’s all done, the seam is less noticeable and you see more of the embroidery work instead of the seam lines. Yes, it had to be all done by hand. No, I don’t wear glasses, or reading glasses… yet.   sleeves03